Restoring Barrier Function and Skin Hydration from within by Boosting Endogenous Hyaluronic Acid Production

O ur skin is the natural barrier that protects us from the environment. Some of the most important functions of the skin are blocking external pathogens and other substances from penetrating the body and preventing water loss. These functions are performed primarily by the epidermis by producing a protective, highly impermeable layer (stratum corneum) that permits survival under Earth conditions. Unfortunately, skin barrier dysfunction is one of the hallmarks of aged skin, placing it in a constant stage of water loss. Externally-induced or disease-related barrier dysfunction sets the stage for premature aging and chronic inflammation. Clinically, the most common signs of barrier dysfunction—with its concomitant increase in water loss—are dry skin, flakiness, itchiness, inflammation and increase in skin sensitivity. Alterations in the epidermal barrier function also facilitate the penetration of irritants or allergens, increasing inflammation and further aggravating barrier dysfunction. Three approaches with different mechanisms of action can be used to prevent barrier dysfunction-mediated deleterious changes in the skin. These are: a.) avoid exposure to irritants or stressors, b.) externally add ingredients that temporarily improve barrier function or c.) restore endogenous capacity of the skin to form a healthy epidermal barrier from within. Lifestyle and urban living prevent us from limiting or avoiding the contact with irritants, pollutants and allergens that can damage our skin barrier. Similarly, completely eliminating skin exposure to solar radiation and deleterious environmental conditions such as high heat, dry/cold air and strong winds is very difficult to accomplish. A commonly used approach in the cosmetic industry for the past two decades is to temporarily improve epidermal barrier function by externally replacing lost lipids or water. Although this approach has shown some effectiveness, it does not address the core problem: age-related epidermal dysfunction. Additionally, externally added lipids must be protected from lipid peroxidation for them to provide any beneficial effects by either using sunscreen or antioxidants. SkinMedica’s approach to epidermal dysfunction resulted in the creation of HA5 Rejuvenating Hydrator, a product that restores epidermal function and skin hydration by improving the natural ability of the skin to rejuvenate itself. HA5 Rejuvenating Hydrator triggers epidermal self-rejuvenation through normalization of endogenous epidermal hyaluronic acid (HA) levels. VitisenSCETM technology, which combines Vitis vinifera flower stem cell extract with marine microorganism polysaccharides and a peptide complex, is the force behind the observed replenishment of endogenous epidermal HA levels as well as the restoration of epidermal homeostasis. The rationale behind the creation of HA5 Rejuvenating BY VIRGINIA L. VEGA, PhD & RAHUL C. MEHTA, PhD PART 1